Mohair
Weaving and Dyeing.......
The Traditional
Way!
(Intercal Trading Group
is pleased to present the following historical profile of our exclusive
German weaver, A. Helmbold GmbH)
Pg.2 of 2
World War I erupted
in 1914, and Adolf Helmbold was called to active duty in the army between
1916 and 1918 causing the mohair production to come to a standstill in
those years. The production was again started after the war, and
in 1923 A. Helmbold Company acquired their own dye and finishing company
with the thought in mind of increasing their flexibility and independence.
The founder, Adolf Helmbold, was not a dyer by trade, but within a short
period of time he managed to coordinate the weaving and finishing businesses,
and the production was increased many fold. At the same time the quality
of A. Helmbold’s products were making rapid advances.
During this period
many different fabrics were manufactured. From shoeplush to cotton-velveteen
to tipped mohair plush...altogether some 50 to 60 different qualities in
plush alone mostly in mohair, wool and cotton. The company’s marketing
efforts were increased and a worldwide marketing network was established,
which resulted in Helmbold fabrics being represented and sold throughout
the world. Colored plush was exported to Africa and Persian lamb imitations
shipped to Canada! During those years exports reached 70 to 80% of total
production. At the beginning of the thirties the popularity of Mohair declined,
and the Helmbold Company was one of the first to introduce artificial silk
plush for the toy industry. The price difference between mohair and artificial
silk plush was small in those days!
In 1938 the founder,
Adolf Helmbold, died and left all his assets to his two sons, Ludwig Helmbold,
a textile technician and the company’s sales manager, and Karl Helmbold,
who was educated as a dyer. The two sons managed the company, A.
Helmbold KG, through the troubled war years.
After World War II
production of Mohair was restarted once again. Artificial silk plush had
been an important part of the production in the thirties, and the production
of these fabrics was also recommenced after the war. In 1948 Karl Helmbold
died, and the management of the company was left with Ludwig Helmbold.
Managing the company was difficult under the former German Democratic Republic
and the company suffered. At the end of the fifties, the importation of
mohair yarns was limited by the government and stopped altogether by the
end of the sixties. The still private company, A. Helmbold KG, had
to survive by manufacturing artificial silk plush and tipped synthetics
for the toy and case-lining industries.
This private venture
ended on April 15, 1972 when the company was seized by the former German
Democratic Republic. The once proud A. Helmbold KG company became government
property thus ending 72 years of family entrepreneurship. In the following
years production was managed by government decree, special weaving and
finishing machinery were tossed away and many years of accumulated knowledge
of the employees was ignored. Ludwig Helmbold died in 1985 as a frustrated
man due to the oppression of the government for two generations and the
decline of the company under socialism.
In 1990, after
the reunification of Germany, the unthinkable became thinkable....the impossible
became possible. A restart and continuation of the weaving traditions in
Oberweid! In the spring of 1990, the daughter of Ludwig Helmbold, engineer
Edeltraud Neubert, and her husband, engineer Manfred Neubert, petitioned
the German government to get back the property, which had been in their
family for so many years.
Since January 1991 the new company,
A. Helmbold GmbH, has been managed by Mrs. Edeltraud Neubert with the help
and support of her two sons, Stefan and Burkhard Neubert, both of whom
are textile engineers. The present manufacturing program encompasses several
plush fabrics made with natural fibers...like Mohair, Cotton, Wool and
Alpaca for the toy industry, and viscose-silk plush for the case-lining
industry.
The A. Helmbold GmbH
tradition of Mohair weaving and dyeing lives on as the founder, Adolf
Helmbold, would have wanted!